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Mallorca 1 - The Archduke's Land of Freedom. Luis Salvador
He was the first "alternative"
tourist, discoverer of the Balearics, a friend of Sissi's, a globetrotter
and writer of travel books, among many other things. Luis Salvador, Archduke
of Habsburg, Lotringa and Borbón, was loved and admired, but also
hated and envied. The mystery surrounding him will never be completely
cleared up. A portrait by Susanne Bäthge...
At the age of 20
he decided to ignore all conventions and rules of etiquette in the court
of Vienna and devote himself entirely to his personal interests which were
travelling around the world exploring, adventure and a curiosity for science.
Obviously, he couldn't expect the older Habsburg generation to exactly
approve of such eccentricities, but his father, Leopold XI, Great Duke
of Tuscany and Imperial Prince of Austria let him be. He was accepted as
a "weird character", and it wouldn't have crossed anyone's mind that even
the King Juan Carlos of Spain would dream out loud "how I would've
liked to be the Archduke who owned the road along the Valldemossa and Deià
coast, and who received visits from Empress Sissi in her sailing
boat". At least this is what it says in the biography on Luis Salvador
by the Viennese historian Helga Schwendiger.
Another expert
on the Archduke's writing is Peter Kroll-Vogel. This dealer in antiques,
originally from the German city of Bochum, has dedicated over 20 years
to the study of this Habsburg clan character, looking up information in
the imperial library of Vienna. He now owns the most important private
collection of the Archduke's work. His files include about 20.000 documents,
among them sixty first editions out of the seventy that were published.
Those interested can see the Archduke's correspondence, interestingly bound,
on exhibit in the Nixe Bar.
Kroll-Vogel loves cooking. His restaurant in the Port of Andratx is called the "Nixe"
in honour of the Archduke and is decorated with antiques related to the
world of sailing as well as many keepsakes. After all, the Archduke sailed
across the world in his two sailing boats, the Nixe I and Nixe
II. He was fascinated by Mallorca from the moment he got here. He was
modest, unpretentious, a man who saw himself as "one of many", who loved
going out to sea with the fishermen and preferred the company of farmers
to that of intellectuals. Although from the outside he was almost grotesque
looking -- he gave up his uniform for rags and tatters -- he was very witty
and had an irresistible sense of humour.
Sissi may have been seduced by precisely the Archduke's eccentric personality. The Empress
of Austria and the Archduke shared a love of nature and a great curiosity
towards life. Whenever the beautiful Empress felt the need to escape
from the court in Vienna she took refuge in her friend's house in Mallorca. The vast sea,
the sound of the waves, nature's great display... all these things fascinated her as they did the
naturalist Luis Salvador. This writer, seaman, painter and illustrator
wrote nine books on the Balearic Islands in twenty years. As proof of gratitude
for his work in making Mallorca known around the world, in 1877 he was
named freeman of the city of Palma, and in 1910 this title was made extensive
to the whole island of Mallorca.
The Archduke's stay in Mallorca has left many landmarks on the island. His residence,
Son Marroig, between Valldemossa and Deià, has become a museum
and concert hall, and the Son Moragues estate is a renowned Majorcan cuisine
restaurant. S'Estaca, the country home which he shared with Catalina
Homar, official administrator of his goods, is now closed to the public.
This Moorish mansion is now property of Hollywood star Michael Douglas.
The Archduke's
favourite summer quarters were a little further north along the coast:
Miramar, his private paradise, "an oasis of peace for his tormented
and intense life" (as described by biographer Schwendinger). However, the
First World War called an end to the Archduke's life of total freedom.
Circumstances forced him to return to the palace of his youth. Luis Salvador
was accused of being an adventurer and was considered a controversial character by many
Majorcans. His true personality, his way of thinking and feeling, his intelligence
and his dedication to scientific studies were not acknowledged until much
later.
Thanks to the many books published on the Archduke, to the second editions printed of his
work, and to the portraits and the monuments built in his honour in Palma
and Valldemossa, this true discoverer of Mallorca has been remembered by
the Majorcans and all those in love with the island and given the place
he deserves in the history of the island.
©  Medien
Service Mallorca S.L. 2002-2007
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