Mallorca 1 - The Archduke's Land of Freedom. Luis Salvador

He was the first "alternative" tourist, discoverer of the Balearics, a friend of Sissi's, a globetrotter and writer of travel books, among many other things. Luis Salvador, Archduke of Habsburg, Lotringa and Borbón, was loved and admired, but also hated and envied. The mystery surrounding him will never be completely cleared up. A portrait by Susanne Bäthge...

At the age of 20 Luis Salvador he decided to ignore all conventions and rules of etiquette in the court of Vienna and devote himself entirely to his personal interests which were travelling around the world exploring, adventure and a curiosity for science. Obviously, he couldn't expect the older Habsburg generation to exactly approve of such eccentricities, but his father, Leopold XI, Great Duke of Tuscany and Imperial Prince of Austria let him be. He was accepted as a "weird character", and it wouldn't have crossed anyone's mind that even the King Juan Carlos of Spain would dream out loud "how I would've liked to be the Archduke who owned the road along the Valldemossa and Deià coast, and who received visits from Empress Sissi in her sailing Son Marroig boat". At least this is what it says in the biography on Luis Salvador by the Viennese historian Helga Schwendiger.

Another expert on the Archduke's writing is Peter Kroll-Vogel. This dealer in antiques, originally from the German city of Bochum, has dedicated over 20 years to the study of this Habsburg clan character, looking up information in the imperial library of Vienna. He now owns the most important private collection of the Archduke's work. His files include about 20.000 documents, among them sixty first editions out of the seventy that were published. Those interested can see the Archduke's correspondence, interestingly bound, on exhibit in the Nixe Bar.

Kroll-Vogel loves cooking. His restaurant in the Port of Andratx is called the "Nixe" Peter Kroll-Vogel in honour of the Archduke and is decorated with antiques related to the world of sailing as well as many keepsakes. After all, the Archduke sailed across the world in his two sailing boats, the Nixe I and Nixe II. He was fascinated by Mallorca from the moment he got here. He was modest, unpretentious, a man who saw himself as "one of many", who loved going out to sea with the fishermen and preferred the company of farmers to that of intellectuals. Although from the outside he was almost grotesque looking -- he gave up his uniform for rags and tatters -- he was very witty and had an irresistible sense of humour.

Sissi may have been seduced by precisely the Archduke's eccentric personality. The Empress Sissi of Austria and the Archduke shared a love of nature and a great curiosity towards life. Whenever the beautiful Empress felt the need to escape from the court in Vienna she took refuge in her friend's house in Mallorca. The vast sea, the sound of the waves, nature's great display... all these things fascinated her as they did the naturalist Luis Salvador. This writer, seaman, painter and illustrator wrote nine books on the Balearic Islands in twenty years. As proof of gratitude for his work in making Mallorca known around the world, in 1877 he was named freeman of the city of Palma, and in 1910 this title was made extensive to the whole island of Mallorca.

The Archduke's stay in Mallorca has left many landmarks on the island. His residence, Michael Douglas finca s'Estaca Son Marroig, between Valldemossa and Deià, has become a museum and concert hall, and the Son Moragues estate is a renowned Majorcan cuisine restaurant. S'Estaca, the country home which he shared with Catalina Homar, official administrator of his goods, is now closed to the public. This Moorish mansion is now property of Hollywood star Michael Douglas.

The Archduke's West coast favourite summer quarters were a little further north along the coast: Miramar, his private paradise, "an oasis of peace for his tormented and intense life" (as described by biographer Schwendinger). However, the First World War called an end to the Archduke's life of total freedom. Circumstances forced him to return to the palace of his youth. Luis Salvador was accused of being an adventurer and was considered a controversial character by many Majorcans. His true personality, his way of thinking and feeling, his intelligence Map North West and his dedication to scientific studies were not acknowledged until much later.

Thanks to the many books published on the Archduke, to the second editions printed of his work, and to the portraits and the monuments built in his honour in Palma and Valldemossa, this true discoverer of Mallorca has been remembered by the Majorcans and all those in love with the island and given the place he deserves in the history of the island.


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