Some of the most beautiful tourist destinations in Mallorca are hidden behind thick natural stone walls in the inland area of the island, especially in the Serra de Tramuntana mountains. "Agricultural tourism", a term which evokes simple country life, often rivals five star hotels with regard to comfort. Not to mention the richness and versatilty it has to offer. By  Birgit Kahle...

The stately homes recall the aristocratic life of bygone days. In some beautifully preserved farms, the landlady will treat us to her culinary delicacies. There is even the possiblility of renting whole country estates. Rural life has the benefit of silence, a silence only occasionally broken by the bleating of flocks of sheep, a silence in keeping with the desire for the peace and solitude of genuine Mallorcan tradition. A hermit world which seduces the senses.

Turn left when you get to the broom shrubs, then when you pass the stone wall on the right... Long live modern data transmission technology! The XVII century estate blends in so perfectly with the lanscape of hills which separate the little villages of Caimari and Moscari, that it would have been impossible to find if it were not for the fax indicating the way.

 Ets Albellons in the village of Binibona is a paradigmatic example of the local agricultural tourism dreamed up by the visionary ex Regional Minister of Toursim Jaume Cladera. The farmers, whose farms were no longer profitable, became hoteliers. The old barns were converted into living spaces, preserving the landscape intact. All this with the help of small state subsidies and a large dose of enthusiasm on the part of the owners. At Ets Albellons, Sebastián and his family show their appreciation of their guestss loyalty with a warm welcome, set off with a superb roast lamb which the lady of the house prepares in the old stone oven. There are no anacronisms... Inside the walls of Ets Albellons luxury is not an unknown value. Each room is unique, with hand-painted wall tiles, bathrobes which pamper us with the softness of their fabrics, jacuzzi and fax. The scenery evokes nostalgia... and the white crocheted bedspreads could be sold as works of art in traditional craft markets throughout the world.

The pool, from where we can make out the coast 60 km away, submerges us in a kind of fanciful dream. Only the slow creaking of the olive trees breaks the spell. Some hikers come up against the imperturbable gaze of two mountain goats; deep down we also harbour the secret hope that that gaze will retain us forever in this place.

Finding the small  Hotel D'Es Puig in Deià is an almost futile task without the complicity of the village baker. A hundred years ago it was a redoubt which accommodated the pioneers of tourism in the Balearic Islands, then it remained closed for decades. Indeed, here one does not practise agricultural tourism but inland tourism a classification awarded only those village houses built before 1940 and which, therefore, symbolise the traditional style of the island. The owners, Jaume Pujol Bauzá and his wife Carolina, reopened the family property, which has ten rooms, in 1996. People who come here do not need time to beome acclimatised. An informal atmosphere reigns, adapted to everyones taste.

We want to do something normal. We want to make our style clear to our guests, but without it becoming an imposition. This is how Jaume describes the character of the house. We shall search in vain for suites or any kind of pomp. Simplicity rules in all its elegance and defines the charm of Hotel D'Es Puig. The owner, whose real profession is that of tax consultant, goes out personally to pick the lemons from the garden for the breakfast tea. In the lounge-dining room we listen to Vivaldi and the ensaimadas (spiral shaped pastries) taste if as they have just come out of the village bakers oven. The rooms are notable for their restrained elegance and they are reasonably priced. The view of the impressive rocky landscape is free, including the spectacular sight offered every evening by the sunset which sets the dusk on fire. This is the genuine flavour of holidays.

It is the basis of happiness this is how the islanders describe their relationship with food and drink Enjoying this basic recipe is one of the many exquisite experiences of our holiday.

Eating and drinking are still pleasures which everyone can afford on the island of Mallorca. Especially if we bear in mind that the roots of Mallorcan cuisine which has enjoyed a boom in recent years- are based on the simplicity of the gastronomic traditions of farmers and fishermen. Not even the great avalanche of outsiders has changed these habits. This cuisine is inspired by market supply and makes use of regional produce. Although the supply of fresh fish is ever more limited due to the exhaustion of the natural resources of the Mediterranean Sea, there is nothing better than going to the Plaça de l'Olivar market to whet the appetite. As long as we ask politely, the stallholders will invite us to taste some of their fresh produce.

To drink: wine. Mallorcan wine, naturally. Binissalem, an area with designation of origin, produces some extraordinarily good wines.

So dont miss the opportunity of trying some of these traditional dishes of the islands gastronomy.

As a starter or snack: Pa amb oli: country bread rubbed with ramallet tomato and dressed with a few drops of olive oil. Its as simple as it is delicious! Sobrassada: this tasty Mallorcan sausage acquires its characteristic deep red colour just by adding paprika or cayenne pepper. It is used in many traditional dishes. Cargols: snails cooked in a wine and herb stock, served with all i oli (garlic mayonnaise).
As a main course: Frit mallorquí: lightly fried pork or lamb offal mixed with fennel, pepper and fresh vegetables which are fried separately. Pollastre i gambes: chicken and prawn stew. Llom amb col: pork loin fillet wrapped in cabbage leaves, baked in the traditional Mallorcan stone ovens, with raisins, pine kernels and small pieces of morcilla (a sausage similar to black pudding). Porcella: suckling pig. The great favourite among the meats. Mariscada: an abundant selection of fish and seafood. Variety for all tastes! Arros brut: casserole of chicken, rabbit and vegetables. Tumbet: vegetarian dish slightly spicy- structured in layers, with aubergines, peppers and potatoes in tomato sauce. Sopes mallorquines: stew of cabbage and vegetables of the season with pork.

You can make your booking for the Ets Albellons Farm, the Hotel D'Es Puig and many other rural hotels and country houses directly through Mallorca 1. All you have to do is click!

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